We have collaborated with Hewitt Heritage to create an Indigo warp and ecru wept 12oz Selvedge denim, with an awesome ‘fleck’ through the warp and weft. Woven for &SONS on traditional looms in the North of England, then handbuilt with finishing details completed on original UNION SPECIAL machines. These techniques have given us the perfect vintage finish with a worn-in feel, combined with the hard-wearing qualities of traditional Selvedge.
THE CUTTER design is a 1950’s straight cut denim but with a slightly tapered from the knee down. They feature our signature chore pocket, detailed phone back pocket and Rider’s cinch strap, which is now removable and reversible if preferred to be worn on the back.
All sizes are 35" in leg length which provides you with a good amount of jean to turn up and finished off with ‘roping chain stitch’ on the hem. Riveted with our iconic studs inside and out and contrast binding in Natural Cotton Twill to match the pocket bags, these are heavyweight and super strong. We’ve also added some lovely details to the inside - we’ve hand screen printed each pocket with Selvedge details and care instructions, all in &SONS vintage red ink. Lastly, we’ve added our new ‘Made in Britain' label on the waistband.
Made in Britain
When we first started out on the road of making denim locallywe did so because we wanted to be sure that our denim was not going to impact the environment. The pursuit of an ecologically and ethically sound denim was and still is paramount. So as a standard we source our yarns only from suppliers that share our values and are committed to sustainable practices. Our warp yarn is dyed with Dystar GOTS Version 4 Approved Pre-Reduced Indigo and our weft yarns will always be Oeko-Tex 100 certified.
Our Selvedge Denim is woven on 2 1950's Blackburn Northrop Power Looms. These looms produce uniquely characterful denim with a beautiful look and feel.
Our selvedge looms are as far from the modern looms used in Japanese, Italian and Turkish denim mills as one can get. Due to this, we are unable to produce selvedge denim that won’t have subtle inconsistencies. These are caused by the age of the looms and what is referred to in the industry as “Loom Chatter”. This chatter causes our selvedge denim to at times have a “Nep” look and feel. Nep is caused when the shuttle pushes in a broken and knotted fill yarn which results in it protruding from the warped surface.
One of the most visible examples of this is what's called the broken fill (weft) yarn “defect” that pops up ever so often. Prior to the 1970s, most workwear companies sold their denim products with broken fill yarns. These subtle inconsistencies produced by our vintage looms create denim reminiscent of that time and much like the vintage jeans we love and grew up in. Like any denim, nep and broken fill lines will fade with wash and wear. However, the sometimes exaggerated exposure of our ecru weft yarn leads to a singularly unique trait of a horizontal and vertical fade.
Available on a limited run – LOT 01. Complete with certificate of authenticity and signed by our Founder and Creative Director Phil James. Designed and hand-made in the UK.
The finished weight is 400 Gr/m2 or 11.89 Oz/y2, this will increase after washing.
The denim should only ever be washed inside out in cold water and never, ever, ever machine dried, drip dry only!!! We would recommend not to wash for at least 6 months. Just use water to get out a stain and if you need to freshen up then put them in the freezer. If you do want to wash them they should try and wait until 3-6 months, this will allow for more whiskering and will also mean that the denim will have stretch out a bit. If you then wash on a short cycle in cold water, after a drip dry, it will bring the denim back within reading distance of its unwashed fit.